Burgundy stands as one of the world's most revered and sought out wine regions, yet its reputation rests predonimently on just two grape varieties: Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. While many wine regions boast dozens of different grapes, Burgundy has perfected the art of expressing terroir through these two noble varieties, creating wines that are both distinctly different and unmistakably Burgundian.
The Burgundy Philosophy: Less is More
What makes Burgundy unique isn't complexity of grape varieties, but rather the profound understanding of place, or terroir. The region's winemakers have spent centuries learning how Pinot Noir and Chardonnay express the subtle differences between vineyards that might be separated by just a few metres. This laser focus on two grapes allows for an extraordinary depth of expression that would be impossible with a broader palette.
Pinot Noir: Burgundy's Temperamental Red
Pinot Noir is often called the "heartbreak grape" for good reason. It's notoriously difficult to grow and even more challenging to vinify well. In Burgundy, however, this fussy variety finds its perfect home.
The Character of Burgundian Pinot Noir
Burgundy Pinot Noir is characterised by its elegance rather than power. Unlike the fruit-forward styles found in warmer climates, Burgundian Pinot Noir offers:
- Ethereal aromatics: Wild strawberry, cherry and raspberry mingle with earthy notes of forest floor, mushroom and wet leaves.
- Silky texture: The best examples offer a texture that's simultaneously delicate and complex.
- Mineral backbone: The limestone-rich soils of the Côte d'Or impart a distinctive mineral character.
- Ageing potential: While approachable young, fine Burgundy Pinot Noir can develop for decades.
Regional Variations
The Côte de Nuits, stretching from Dijon to Corgoloin, produces the most celebrated Pinot Noir in Burgundy. Villages like Gevrey-Chambertin and Vosne-Romanée create wines of extraordinary depth and complexity. The Côte de Beaune, while famous for its whites, also produces exceptional Pinot Noir in appellations like Volnay and Pommard, often with a slightly more approachable style.
Chardonnay: The Golden Child of Burgundy
If Pinot Noir is Burgundy's temperamental artist, Chardonnay is its reliable virtuoso. This grape achieves its finest expression in Burgundy's chalky soils and cool climate, creating wines that set the global standard for the variety.
The Burgundian Chardonnay Style
Burgundy Chardonnay is the antithesis of the oaky, tropical fruit bombs that became popular in the 1980s and 90s. Instead, it offers:
- Mineral precision: The limestone soils create wines with a distinctive chalky minerality.
- Balanced oak: When used, oak is employed judiciously to complement rather than dominate.
- Citrus and orchard fruits: Lemon, lime, apple and pear notes predominate.
- Textural complexity: The best examples offer layers of texture from fine lees aging.
The White Burgundy Hierarchy
The Côte de Beaune is the heart of white Burgundy, with Chablis to the north providing its own distinctive expression. Meursault produces rich, buttery whites, while Puligny-Montrachet and Chassagne-Montrachet create some of the world's most sought-after Chardonnays. At the pinnacle sit the Grand Cru vineyards like Montrachet itself, producing wines that can command thousands of pounds per bottle.
Understanding Burgundy's Classification System
Both Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in Burgundy are subject to the same classification hierarchy:
Regional Appellations: Basic Burgundy Rouge or Blanc, accounting for about 60% of production Village Appellations: Wines from specific villages like Gevrey-Chambertin or Meursault Premier Cru: Wines from specially designated vineyard sites within villages Grand Cru: The pinnacle, representing less than 2% of production but the most prestigious sites.
This system applies equally to both varieties, recognising that terroir, not grape variety, is the primary determinant of quality in Burgundy.
Food Pairing: Two Grapes, Endless Possibilities
The food-friendliness of Burgundy wines stems from their balance and restraint.
Pinot Noir Pairings
- Classic: Coq au vin, beef bourguignon, duck confit.
- Modern: Grilled salmon, mushroom risotto, aged hard cheeses.
- Seasonal: Game birds, roasted root vegetables, earthy autumn dishes.
Chardonnay Pairings
- Chablis: Oysters, shellfish, goat cheese.
- Meursault: Roasted chicken, lobster, creamy pasta dishes.
- Montrachet: Foie gras, turbot, the finest occasions.
Collecting Burgundy: An Investment in Terroir
For the serious wine collector, Burgundy offers both challenges and rewards. The region's small production and global demand mean that the finest wines are increasingly expensive and difficult to obtain. However, understanding the two-grape philosophy can help collectors make informed decisions.
Look for producers who demonstrate mastery of both varieties, as this often indicates a deep understanding of their terroir. Names like Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Domaine Devillard, and Domaine Nudant command premium prices for good reason, but smaller producers can offer exceptional value.
The Future of Burgundy's Two Grapes
Climate change presents both challenges and opportunities for Burgundy. Warmer temperatures may benefit Pinot Noir's ripening, while potentially stressing Chardonnay in some sites. However, Burgundy's producers have shown remarkable adaptability over centuries and the region's commitment to these two varieties remains unwavering.
The future of Burgundy lies not in embracing new grape varieties but in continuing to perfect the expression of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay across the region's diverse terroirs. Each vintage brings new lessons, new expressions and new reasons to celebrate these two remarkable grapes.
Conclusion: Embracing Burgundy's Duality
Burgundy's genius lies in its simplicity: two grapes, countless expressions. Whether you're drawn to the ethereal complexity of Pinot Noir or the mineral precision of Chardonnay, both varieties offer a lifetime of exploration within this single region. The next time you open a bottle of Burgundy, remember that you're not just tasting a wine – you're experiencing the culmination of centuries of understanding between grape, soil, and climate.
At Friarwood, we've built relationships with Burgundy producers who exemplify this philosophy, offering wines that showcase the pure expression of terroir through these two magnificent grapes. Whether you're beginning your Burgundy journey or adding to an established collection, the two faces of Burgundy await your discovery.
