Friarwood

DALMORE 1990, 17 YEAR OLD, 35cl, HIGHLAND, 59.7% ABV

1 of only 590 bottles from cask 7327

Dalmore is a big, oily whisky, but this example holds back its innate character until the end. The refill butt has given it a first aroma of dried fruit-cake, becoming more juicy and fruity as it develops in the glass, with coffee dregs and crystalline sugar. The taste at this stage is sweet and nutty (Brazil nuts), with distinct Grappa notes. Water continues the theme into panacotta – the Italian sponge-cake with nuts and dried fruit. Also creamy rice pudding, and a curious citric note after a while (Seville orange?); the tell-tale oiliness which is Dalmore’s hall-mark is only apparent at a certain sage of dilution. The spirit is lively on the tongue, even at reasonable dilution, almost spritzich. It has a sweetish start and a bitter-sweet finish with lingering chocolate in the aftertaste.